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Now designer wear on the Net   Maitreyee Handique
Rahul Khanna, director of Delhi-based Cue Apparels Ltd and partner of fashion designer Rohit Gandhi, says that his company receives nearly 15 to 20 international orders for bandgalas and sherwanis over the Net every month. "But there is always a chance of being taken for a ride as you don't know the client. Plus handling courier and credit is a big hassle," says Khanna, who promotes labels Cue and H20 in five Indian cities and at overseas boutiques like International Tabla in London and Sanskriti in Hong Kong. For designers like Khanna, help may soon be at hand. If things go according to plan, New Delhi-based graphics design company Illum Design Project Ltd will launch a high-fashion online shop called Bougan-villa.com by end August, where fashionable clothes by designers like Rohit Bal or Manish Arora can be bought without stepping out of home. Says Himanshu Dogra, who designs catalogues, logos and signages for fashion designers, "We thought it was a natural extension of our business."

Dogra's plan? To get at least a dozen designers like Rajesh Pratap Singh, Manish Arora and Abraham & Thakore under one online umbrella to market lifestyle clothes, furnishing and accessories. Dogra, who runs the company with partner Francis Joe and wife Dhruti, says that he's got positive response from designers like Ashish Soni, Namrata Joshipura, J J Valaya, Rohit Gandhi and Rahul Khanna. Bougan-villa.com has already signed up with credit card and courier companies.

Currently the company is busy planning photo shoots for the site and is worried about quality control and dress sizes. "We want to keep it tight in the first year. It's not going to be a site for 100 designers. It'll be for a select few whose designs complement each other. Our selling point is that the best designers will be sold under one roof," says Dogra, who has also made promotional films for designers Rajesh Pratap and J J Valaya earlier. Targeted at the Indian Diaspora, the site will be easy to navigate and a staff of 16 has already been recruited to look into inventory and despatch as well as to update the site. While most designers have their official websites, they have been reluctant to entertain sale enquiries for fear of fake orders, mass copying of designs and issues related to size fits.

For instance, designer David Abraham mainly sells home furnishings and fit-all clothes like robes or kimonos on the Net. On Bougan-villa.com, he says, "We are considering to be part of it and plan to retail both clothes and furnishings to spread the risk." Bougan-villa has also found favour with Manish Arora's partner and director of Three Clothing Ltd Deepak Bhagwani. He says, "This way we will reach a wider audience which exclusive designer shops don't provide," says Bhagwani. This is, however, not the first time that designers are promoting business together.

In 2002, Rohit Bal, Rajesh Pratap, Manish Arora and Abraham and Thakore formed the Shopkeepers' Welfare Association and took up retail space at 1 MG Road, Delhi. In 2003, the band moved together to open up a shop at The Courtyard in Mumbai and this January some of them took up retail space at 14 VM Road in Bangalore. "The core idea was to go places together. The concept has worked well so far," says Sapna Mehra, the association's coordinator. They are now expecting Bougan-villa to bloom.

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How fashionable are you?   Raghavendra Rathore

Fashion in our culture, like many other virtues, is on a loose leash. Tradition and customs are in many ways opposites of fashion -- but only up to a point, when fashion becomes custom. For example, if a blue silk sari is part of a cultural custom and for some reason is not available and is substituted by a cotton blue sari, then the latter becomes acceptable. If the blue silk sari becomes available again, but individuals collectively still choose to wear the blue cotton sari, then it is a sign that a fashion has become a custom.

Most customs and traditions assert a sense of permanence in a social group. This permanence then becomes a reference point that suggests the leverage fashion has in a society. What is astonishing is the rate at which fashion is merging with our lives through visual stimulus, which is entrenched in the way we now live our life. Fashion generally carries with it a tone of approval or disapproval; the emotional context of fashion is measured in the emphasis with which it is packed within its presentation. But, when fashion becomes a fad by default of a particular endorsement or a social vehicle, it marks the beginning of change. Whether acceptable or not, fads are telltale signs of a culture losing grip on its integrity.

A fad is largely seen as an individual expression of a small segment of people living within a larger body of a social group. This is where fashion starts to get an overture of darkness. Superstardom and populace from the entertainment industry have the awesome power to influence the masses. They can manipulate an appalling fad through their sense of self-expression. This influence, if not in keeping with fashion, is inflected on to a social canvas, and as a result the erosion of aesthetics sets in at all levels by this one action.

Another aspect that is silently dispensing fashion is tabloid fashion. As demanding editors of our new breed of glossies fight for top party pictures for the eye-catcher's page in their respectable magazines, they are not only creating a new order of fashion hierarchy in the already overexcited social scene, but fuelling it to full throttle. Fads from these glossies are aped and recycled back into the furthermost corners of our society.

It is exceedingly dangerous to rationalise an acceptance of fashion to a fad. With no fashion police to monitor the fashion system, it is left to the earnest among us to build a mindset that determines superior fashion. In New York, Eleanor Lampard was credited with having created the first annual 'best dressed list' for an important publication and set in motion panic in the affluent Park Avenue pack. Maybe the time has come to find our own Eleanor to separate the honey from the water.

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