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Corporatisation: Fashion's new mantra
Sangeeta Singh & Samyukta Bhowmick |
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| Already, news channels are gearing themselves for catfights over allegations of stolen designs, green room backbiting and poaching of models.
Next week, as the annual Rs 5 crore (Rs 50 million)
India Fashion Week juggernaut lumbers up the ramp, 63 designers in tow, editors and reporters are anticipating a frisson of excitement.
Who'll be the new discovery of the year? Who'll bag the maximum orders from stores overseas? Who'll laugh and have fun; who'll do the naughty shows; who'll be at those (nudge nudge, wink wink) parties that begin well past midnight?
But they might as well pack up their barbs and their poison pens. This year, though only six editions old, the Fashion Week is already showing signs of approaching middle age. |
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The queues outside Rohit Bal's studio ("the bad boy of fashion") are thinning down; Malini Ramani and Rina Dhaka are only as good as the legs and cleavage their models will flash, and are being booked for viewings by zit-scarred teenagers looking for a "reality" experience.
But the real show, away and off the ramps as ever, is getting serious. Even as they go through last minutes tucks and fittings, the designers are concerned less with the outrageous statements that had characterised the incestuous fashion trade till recently.
For a change, their concern with "foreign buyers" is less hysterical. Couture -- their term for jhakmak embroidery on fitted trousseaus -- is no longer the priority. Instead, what they're all echoing, almost as a parody, is fashion's new mantra: "corporatisation".
And well they might. For well over a decade, the industry has been indulged by the media, which has given it space that is at odds with its size -- Rs 250 crore (Rs 2.5 billion) according to one study, and growing at a pace of 20 per cent annually.
But increasingly, it isn't the media as much as the designers themselves who've grown disenchanted with the coverage they've merited as vacuous, partying people having fun at the expense of their few customers who shell out big bucks to keep them in champagne. |
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The Second Annual Independent Handbag Designer Awards Announced -- Handbag Designer 101 Honors Excellence in Handbag ... (PRWeb via Yahoo! News) Handbag Designer 101, announced the winners of the Second Annual Independent Handbag Designer Awards which were held on June 18th, at the New York Historical Society. | | | Designer clothes: Hearts and crafts (Daily Telegraph) For those in search of something beautifully made and unique, an increasing number of independent designers are teaming up with artisans to create handcrafted pieces that will stand the test of time. Lucie Muir talks to three London-based entrepreneurs who are using the meticulous skills found in their native Pakistan, Spain and Russia. | | | Up Next, Recaps & Links (CBS News) Stories, links and the place to get more information on stories on CBS News Sunday Morning . | | | Designers working together? Whatever happened to good old-fashioned cut-throat rivalry? (Independent) Fashion isn't renowned for its friendliness: from Prada-wearing devils, to mobile-phone-throwing supermodels, bitchiness abounds. Designers may, on occasion, join forces – but this will usually be with high-street giants (Celia Birtwell for Topshop, Viktor & Rolf for H&M, etc), not with each other. | | | Leaning Toward LEED Certification? (Risk & Insurance) It isn't like you download a to-do list, check off all the steps and--voila--you are green certified. Getting LEED certified or earning a Green Globe rating is a rigorous and project-specific process. | | | (AFX UK Focus) 2008-06-30 09:49 ASOS FY profit up 176 percent and current trading buoyant UPDATE (Interactive Investor) (Adds detail) | | | Krank it up (The Post and Courier) Unless you've avoided stepping foot in a health club in the past decade, you likely know about the popular, group indoor cycling program known as Spinning. Across the world, it has drawn hundreds of thousands of people together to sweat on stationary flywheel bikes while following instructors' commands to the beat of high-energy music. | | | Grey power hits Paris men's catwalks (AFP via Yahoo! News) The four-day men's fashion shows in Paris opened on an unusual note Thursday with Yohji Yamamoto throwing a handful of well over 60-somethings on the catwalk. | | | Ladders of Memory (New York Times) For nearly eight decades, the old factory in SoHo languished, inhabited mostly by ghosts of the past and centuries? worth of paper and hardware. Then the ultra-chic Jil Sander arrived. | | | Current Issue: (Daily Sundial) Young women from across Los Angeles gathered their vintage clothes and participated in a clothes swap on June 24. Beth Jones, a 27-year-old fashion Web blogger and self-proclaimed society girl, hosted a 'Society Swap' in which women exchanged their unwanted outfits for something better. | | |
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How fashionable are you? Raghavendra Rathore
Fashion in our culture, like many other virtues, is on a loose leash. Tradition and customs are in many ways opposites of fashion -- but only up to a point, when fashion becomes custom.
For example, if a blue silk sari is part of a cultural custom and for some reason is not available and is substituted by a cotton blue sari, then the latter becomes acceptable. If the blue silk sari becomes available again, but individuals collectively still choose to wear the blue cotton sari, then it is a sign that a fashion has become a custom.
Most customs and traditions assert a sense of permanence in a social group. This permanence then becomes a reference point that suggests the leverage fashion has in a society. What is astonishing is the rate at which fashion is merging with our lives through visual stimulus, which is entrenched in the way we now live our life.
Fashion generally carries with it a tone of approval or disapproval; the emotional context of fashion is measured in the emphasis with which it is packed within its presentation. But, when fashion becomes a fad by default of a particular endorsement or a social vehicle, it marks the beginning of change.
Whether acceptable or not, fads are telltale signs of a culture losing grip on its integrity.
A fad is largely seen as an individual expression of a small segment of people living within a larger body of a social group.
This is where fashion starts to get an overture of darkness. Superstardom and populace from the entertainment industry have the awesome power to influence the masses. They can manipulate an appalling fad through their sense of self-expression.
This influence, if not in keeping with fashion, is inflected on to a social canvas, and as a result the erosion of aesthetics sets in at all levels by this one action.
Another aspect that is silently dispensing fashion is tabloid fashion. As demanding editors of our new breed of glossies fight for top party pictures for the eye-catcher's page in their respectable magazines, they are not only creating a new order of fashion hierarchy in the already overexcited social scene, but fuelling it to full throttle. Fads from these glossies are aped and recycled back into the furthermost corners of our society.
It is exceedingly dangerous to rationalise an acceptance of fashion to a fad. With no fashion police to monitor the fashion system, it is left to the earnest among us to build a mindset that determines superior fashion.
In New York, Eleanor Lampard was credited with having created the first annual 'best dressed list' for an important publication and set in motion panic in the affluent Park Avenue pack. Maybe the time has come to find our own Eleanor to separate the honey from the water.