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A career prop for fashion designers
Barkha Shah
Fashion designers across the country are sporting a smile. For a new quota-free regime has better career opportunities for them. Yes, you heard it right. For, with textile firms expanding operations and companies setting up their in-house design studios, talent in the fashion designing industry is in great demand. Says, Ningthibi R K, manager, design and development, for the US-based LNC Apparel, "With the end of the quota regime there is bound to be a wider market for fashion designers in India."

She, however, adds that with so many institutes in the country churning out thousands of fashion designers every year, tough competition is likely to take place. "The new batches of students will definitely have to work on their creativity and innovation and push themselves hard to carve a niche for themselves in this industry," Ningthibi says.

There are about a hundred institutes and colleges in India today that offer diploma and degree courses in fashion designing. Assuming that every year at least 30 students pass out from these colleges, there are a minimum of 3,000 students that the industry needs to absorb every year. But is the Indian industry large enough to recruit these 3,000 odd freshers on a yearly basis? Malini D, a professor with the National Institute of Fashion Technology says,

"Many companies today are setting up their own in-house design studios, which in turn need talent. So there is a market that is ready to absorb fashion designers today." Apart from the end of the quota regime qualitative factors will also have a role to play in stimulating demand for fashion designers today. Ningthibi says,

"There are a number of fashion designing institutes today. But the industry does not have a good impression of the short-term courses that they offer. So it is basically the students who pass out from reputed institutes after doing long-term courses who stand a chance. Besides experienced designers are the people who the industry is looking out for now." "We at NIFT, anyway, have a good history of placements, with about 65 per cent of our 250 students across the country, being absorbed by the industry. The remaining are the ones who either set up their own designer boutiques or go abroad for higher studies," Malini D points out. "Today, in fact, there are many new avenues for freshers in export houses, in costume designing for films and in visual merchandising as well," Malini points out. NIFT organises campus recruitment programmes where students have the chance of getting recruited by companies like Arvind Garments, Madura Garments, Weekender and Shivani Exports.

The salary for NIFT freshers ranges between Rs 10,000 and Rs 18,000 per month while for students from other fashion institutes the salary could start from as little as Rs 3000 per month. B D Tejashvi, a final year student at NIFT, concurs, "There is definitely a market for fashion designers today for the simple reason that being fashionable is more acceptable now, than it was earlier." Moreover, not all cities are opening up in terms of designer wear, she says. "Ideally I would like to work in cities like Bangalore, Mumbai or Delhi for a couple of years as other cities are not really happening in terms of designer wear. However, this scenario will change in a couple of years," Tejashvi adds. While there is no denying the fact that fashion designers have a huge opportunity basket waiting only some may end up making the cut. If they do, then the year 2005 may well be a golden year. And as Ningthibi puts it, "Designers do get hefty pay packets."



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How fashionable are you?   Raghavendra Rathore

Fashion in our culture, like many other virtues, is on a loose leash. Tradition and customs are in many ways opposites of fashion -- but only up to a point, when fashion becomes custom. For example, if a blue silk sari is part of a cultural custom and for some reason is not available and is substituted by a cotton blue sari, then the latter becomes acceptable. If the blue silk sari becomes available again, but individuals collectively still choose to wear the blue cotton sari, then it is a sign that a fashion has become a custom.

Most customs and traditions assert a sense of permanence in a social group. This permanence then becomes a reference point that suggests the leverage fashion has in a society. What is astonishing is the rate at which fashion is merging with our lives through visual stimulus, which is entrenched in the way we now live our life. Fashion generally carries with it a tone of approval or disapproval; the emotional context of fashion is measured in the emphasis with which it is packed within its presentation. But, when fashion becomes a fad by default of a particular endorsement or a social vehicle, it marks the beginning of change. Whether acceptable or not, fads are telltale signs of a culture losing grip on its integrity.

A fad is largely seen as an individual expression of a small segment of people living within a larger body of a social group. This is where fashion starts to get an overture of darkness. Superstardom and populace from the entertainment industry have the awesome power to influence the masses. They can manipulate an appalling fad through their sense of self-expression. This influence, if not in keeping with fashion, is inflected on to a social canvas, and as a result the erosion of aesthetics sets in at all levels by this one action.

Another aspect that is silently dispensing fashion is tabloid fashion. As demanding editors of our new breed of glossies fight for top party pictures for the eye-catcher's page in their respectable magazines, they are not only creating a new order of fashion hierarchy in the already overexcited social scene, but fuelling it to full throttle. Fads from these glossies are aped and recycled back into the furthermost corners of our society.

It is exceedingly dangerous to rationalise an acceptance of fashion to a fad. With no fashion police to monitor the fashion system, it is left to the earnest among us to build a mindset that determines superior fashion. In New York, Eleanor Lampard was credited with having created the first annual 'best dressed list' for an important publication and set in motion panic in the affluent Park Avenue pack. Maybe the time has come to find our own Eleanor to separate the honey from the water.

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